The Cambie Dress Adventure - Super Online Sewing Match

Thanks for stopping by to check out my last garment for the Super Online Sewing Match!

Everyone has left such nice comments along the way. 

It really means so much to me - thanks for cheering me on : )

The project for this challenge is Sewaholic's Cambie dress.  I love the dress - it is so cute. 

I was drawn to the A-line version which I saw myself wearing more often.

   This dress required three muslins to get the design and fit right!  It was definitely worth the effort - the fit is fabulous and I will be making at least one more for Fall. 
 No matter how simple the style is, I always, create a muslin to make sure I like the design details and the fit of the garment before I stitch into the actual fabric.

This round my inspiration came from a wonderful book on 40's style fashion and a pair of darling shoes I purchased - cheap - at  Anthropologie a few years back.  I happened to have a lovely cotton jacquard fabric in my favorite color -  yellow - that goes smashingly with the shoes.  I think finding a fabric I wanted to use was the biggest challenge.  I decided on the jacquard because it has a summery feel!

*A little note - those of you who watch Project Runway - this weeks challenge was to design a dress inspired by a pair of shoes  : )   *

 

 

I decided to change the darts to princess seams and add an empire seam line under the bust which is a more flattering style for me.

White piping was added to the pockets, waist and empire seams. 

 

I added curved pockets with piping - similar to the A-line skirt I created in Challenge #1.

 

The upper pocket bags are lined with a pretty coordinating fabric.

 

 

 

 

Once single vintage button was added to the upper neckline.

I purchased these button on Etsy - real glass vintage buttons! It was fun to put one to use : )

 

The invisible zipper starts 5" below the top neckline edge to create a slit for a fun little back detail.

 

The invisible zipper turned out splendidly down to matching the piping at the back waist.  See this post for a tip on getting your piping to match.

The bodice is completely lined with the same pretty floral print that was used for the pocket lining.
The neckline was gaping a bit so I used a handy technique of Staying the neckline.
See below for a tutorial.
I love the hanger view with the lining showing : )

The Skirt is lined with a soft white cotton.

 

 

The hem is faced with the same pretty floral.  Click here for a quick tute to add a hem facing to your garment.

Summer is almost over here in Seattle but I hope to find a special occassion to wear this little number!
I think a girls night out is in order : )

 

 Fixing a Gaping Neckline - or - Staying a neckline.

This is such an important tip for sweetheart and other neckines.  I was so bummed - my dress was almost finished and the neckline was OK  - but not perfect.  It was gaping a bit but then  I remembered learning about learning how to stay a neckline from a tailoring class!  The perfect solution to this problem!  The basic idea is to stitch a piece of fabric that is slightly shorter in length than the seam you want to fix - basically easing the strip of fabric to the neckline to eliminate the gaping neckline.

Materials -
I used selvage from mid wt. quilting cotton which I cut to 1/2" wide.

1. Measure along the seamline on the portion of the neckline you want to ease - or bring closer to the body.  In my case, I measured inside the neckline straps along the seamline and measured 7 3/4".  I decided to cut my tape 1/4" smaller - or 7 1/2".
To determine how much fabric to ease onto the tape, pin out the gaping neckline and use that measurement.

2.  Fold the tape in half and mark.  Place the marking at the center front neckline making sure the tape covers the seam.  Pin in place on the lining side centered on the seam line.

3.  Pin the edges to the place you want to start easing your neckline.  In my case, just inside the straps.
Pin in place.  Also pin along the seamline to the center front, easing in the neckline.  Be sure your stay tape is centered on the seamline.

4.  Flip the garment over and stitch the tape to the neckline following the previous neckline stitching. Be sure to stitch just inside the seam allowance.

My "Go to" book for couture sewing techniques is Claire B Shaeffer's "Couture Sewing Techniques".

Thanks to Beth and Kristin for a fun contest.  It was lots of work but also lots of fun.  It was so nice to meet new friends via Sew Mama Sew. 

xo
Charise

Super Online Sewing Match, Round #4 Men's Negroni Shirt

Thanks for stopping by!  I'll be sharing my latest project for the Online Sewing Match - Colette Patterns Negroni Men's shirt.

I have made a few simple shirts for my boys in the past few years but haven't made a tailored men's shirt since  I was in design school over 20 years ago!  It was a challenging project but the pattern really has wonderful instructions and I would recommend it to anyone who is new at making a tailored shirt.  I especially love the packaging.  The instructions are in booklet form with a spot in the back for the pattern.  Very nicely designed!

Fabric shopping in Seattle was a bust so I ended up ordering the grey stripe fabric from Mood fabrics.  The contrast fabric that I used for the under collar, inside yoke, inside sleeve placket, inside cuff and pocket flap facing is from DS Quilts and I found it at JoAnn Fabrics.
The buttons are antique pewter.
We had two weeks for this challenge but I was on vacation for most of it so I made my shirt this weekend.  Nothing like a little pressure : )

 

I chose the long sleeve version and made tailored sleeve plackets.

I used a contrast print for the inside cuff and inside the sleeve placket.

The plackets were the most challenging part of this challenge for me.

 

 

I added the center box pleat on the pockets. 

 

 

The pocket flap facing is a contrast print.

 

 

I'm very happy with the collar and the way it lays so nicely!  I omitted the loop at the collar but added a loop to the CB yoke (in the next pic). 

 

 

Back yoke with loop and contrast under collar.

 

 

Shirt Back

 

 

I clean finished the front facing edge for a nice finish.

 

 

The armholes are finished with a felled seam and I used french seams for the undersleeve and side seams.  The pattern includes instructions for a cool way to clean finish the inside yoke!

 

All in all I'm really happy with the shirt - The best part of making this shirt was during the "photo shoot".  My hubs was looking at the cuff and said "Wow babe, this shirt is really well made!"

: )

OK, maybe he will get another one as long as I don't have to complete it in a weekend!

A Few Pattern Tips:

*  I followed the fabric requirements for the size XL, 60" wide fabric and had extra fabric.   If I make this pattern again, I would lay out the pattern and determine the fabric requirements.

* Measure your back yoke seam against the top upper back edge.  I found that the XL yoke pattern is larger than the top back shirt.  You can fix this by making your pleats smaller.  I made each pleat on the back shirt 1/4" smaller to accomodate the yoke.

It's a Cinch Tote + Custom Made Accessories ; ) Super Online Sewing Match Round #3

["It's a Cinch Tote" with custom straps]

[Front with Patch Pocket]

I'm soooo happy you stopped by to see my latest project in the "Super Online Sewing Match"!

The third challenge is to make Lisa Lam's "It's a Cinch" Tote Bag.  Looking at the pattern and its simplicity, I knew I wanted this project to be about the fabric, special pockets, and custom made accessories to go with the bag.  This bag is on the larger size, so I took the opportunity to add lots of pocket and personalize with the things I most want and often find lacking in a tote bag.
This will be my "go to" beach bag for the rest of this summer!!!

 I love to make bags so this was a particularly fun challenge for me.
 

[Outside bag with zipper pocket]

The pattern calls for one outside zipper pocket with a hidden pocket bag.  I decide to use Melody Miller's "Ruby Star"  print for the pockets and straps and thought it should be the star of the show.  The body of the bag is "Stamped" by Ellen Luckett Baker.  The pattern calls for one zip pocket with inside pocket bags but I opted for outside pockets on both sides of the bag.

Fusible fleece was applied to the wrong side of the outside panels and then the panels were quilted in a 2" diamond pattern to give the tote more dimension and stability.

[Outside pocket detail]

 One pocket is a patch pocket fussy cut to show off the print and finished with a bound edge.
 

[Outside Pocket with zipper]

The other side has a zipper pocket which showcases the print and  the fun fabric design. 
Both outside pockets fit my IPad Mini or my kid's Kindles!

The pattern calls for purchased straps but I decided to make the straps a design element and created my own from the same fabric. 

[Inside lining pocket detail]

This inside pocket is completely clean finished and has an elastic top casing.
 To make a similar pocket, check our my  tulip bag tutorial. 

I added a self fabric loop and swivel clasp to the outside of the pocket. 
It is perfect for attaching a change purse. 
The change purse combines Essex Linen and a new print by Melody Miller.  The change purse pattern can be found Here.

[Inside lining pocket detail]

The clasp is also perfect for attaching your keys. 
The cute leaf key fob pattern is by Leila of Where the Orchids Grow.

 

[Inside lining pocket detail]
 

On the other side of the lining I wanted to have enough pockets for sketch books,
pens and pencils as well as my phone. 
All the items that I like to have easy access to that often end up in the bottom of my bag!

[Custom accessories - matching coin purse and eyeglass case]

Besides the coin purse I also made an eyeglass case.  Another item I've been wanting to make for the longest time and this seemed like the perfect opportunity!
 I used the same Stamped fabric with a linen flap and self fabric covered button
 that matches the lining.
This fabulous pattern is also by Leila of Where the Orchids grow.

[Custom matching Clutch Purse]


I wanted to make sure I had a smaller purse for this tote.  I created this clutch purse which is the perfect size to hold all you essential including the coin purse!

[ Tote with adjustable messenger bag style strap]

Since this is such a large bag, I wanted the option to carry it cross body or messenger style.
I created a custom, adjustable strap (just add double D-Rings) that are easily attached to the swivel clasps at the top corners.

[Tote Bag cinched]

 

I'll have to admit that I was a bit skeptical of the cinching option - but I love it! 
The tote looks completely different when it is cinched. More like a modern box bag than a tote!

[Tote Bag cinched - side view]

The cinching on the corners creates a nice boxy shape!

[Zipper Detail]

A pic of the zipper per the judges request : )

And lastly, (thanks for hanging in there) an on body picture.

***Here is a recap of the custom details I added***

 

1. Quilted outside body panels.

2. Outside patch pockets - one zipper pocket and one patch pocket. Both are sized for an IPad mini or Kindle.

3. Custom made straps.

4. Self Fabric zipper pull.

5. Clean finished, extra large, inside lining pocket with gathered top and a loop and swivel clasp for attaching keys or a coin purse.

6.  Inside lining pocket to hold sketch books, pens and pencils and a cell phone.

7.  Matching clutch purse.

8.  Matching coin purse.

9.  Matching eyeglass case.

10. Custom adjustable strap to convert to a cross body or messenger bag.

A few tips when sewing this pattern:

1. Use a size 18 needle! Very important especially when you sew the "cinch tabs" to the corners of the bag. Also helpful when sewing the straps to the bag!

2. If you don't already have one, invest in a walking foot for your machine. I was able to sew through many layers thanks to my walking foot!  I honestly wouldn't attempt this bag on a home machine without one.  I love my walking foot!!!!!!!

3. Baste the cinch tabs in place. Super important! It is not fun stitching the corners to find you have to rip out the seam because the cinch tabs are not centered. Baste first and you won't have to rip!!!

 4. My local fabric store did not have rectange rings so I used D- rings which work just fine!

 Thanks for reading through and making it to the end.  And thank you Sew Mam Sew and Lisa Lam for a fabulous challenge and pattern!!!

 

xo

Charise

 

Super Online Sewing Match - Challenge #2 * Rollerskate Dress *

[Ella the Model]

 

[Dress Front]

 

[Dress Back]

I'm so excited to share my garment in the Sew Mama Sew - Super Online Sewing Match!  The challenge was to make Liesl + Co's, Oliver + S Rollerskate dress!  I don't have girls - so I was really happy to have the opportunity to sew a little girl's dress!!  My model is Ella!

[My Inspiration Board]

The inspiration board is filled with ideas and fabrics for the dress.  I love yellow and pink and thought it would be a perfect combo for a little girl's summer dress! 

 

 

[Grandmother's Flower Paper pieced pattern]

 

The jumping off point for the design was this Grandmother's Flower paper pieced pattern. I design paper piecing patterns and thought this one would be a perfect addition to the dress! 

 

[Pocket Detail]

 

 I created two flowers for the pockets in some of my favorite japanese fabrics.  It was fun to fussy cut the motifs for the petals!

 

My version of the dress called for a contrast waistband so I created 1" bias strips and stitched them to the front and back of the dress.  I wanted the shirring detail so elastic was added under the casing.

 

The back closure is three self fabric covered buttons + loops.  The pattern calls for one loop but I thought the three bird buttons would be perfect!

 

 

I spaced the loops about 3/8" apart rather than stitching them right next to each other.  This  way I could stitch the buttons closer to the edge.

[Hem Facing Detail]

 

Instead of twice turning the bottom edge to hem the skirt, I made a hem facing.  I love this detail since you get a nice clean finish with the option of adding a fun pop of contrast fabric. 

I overlocked all the skirt seams - CB, and side seams for added durability since children's clothes are washed - a lot!!!!

. 

To add a Hem Facing to your pattern:

1. Trace the bottom of the front and back pattern pieces and measure up 2" from the bottom on the contrast hem fabric.  Cut out the hem facing pieces.

2. Stitch the CB and side seams together with fabric right sides together. 

3.  Fold under 1/4" on the top edge. Press.  Stitch the bottom facing to the bottom hem, right sides together. (I used a 1/4" s.a.).

4. Press the facing to the wrong side of the bottom skirt.  Roll the facing slightly up so you can see just a bit (about 1/16") of the outer fabric. 

5.  Edgestitch the facing in place.

 

The pattern calls for a full lining.  The fabric I used for the dress was heavy enough without the lining (I used quilting weight or mid weight cotton) so I decided to create a bodice facing to finish the neck and armholes.  The bottom of the facing is overlocked. The facing is machine tacked at the side seams at the bottom of the facing.

 

* A few notes about the pattern *

First I have to say - I loved the pattern!  The instructions and illustrations are wonderful. I would definitely use Liesel + Co patterns again.

*Be sure to measure your model as instructed in the pattern!  I was not able to measure Ella prior to making the dress, so I made the dress one size smaller since she is a petite six year old and the size 5 pattern was still a bit too big.  Hopefully she will be able to wear it next summer too!

*Once you pick your size and cut out the pattern, measure the pattern to figure out your fabric requirements.  I only needed 3/4 of a yard for a size 5 in 44" wide fabric.  I was able to do this since I flipped the back pattern piece.  If you use a directional fabric, you would need the amount of fabric advised in the pattern.

 

 

Happy Sewing!!

xo

Charise